Step 6. Filtered air box
The filtered air box holds the E0995 K&N cone shaped air filter and attaches to the airbox on the carb via a duct and attaches to the cowl on the front side.
First step is to attach the alternate air bracket to the box. This bracket holds the flapper that allows you to run warm air to the carb, closing off the fresh air. The bracket is positioned about 1" back from the front. (Do not position it too far aft. I have a report from a builder who had to trim a notch in his door to clear the air filter.) File and trim as necessary to get a decent fit. Make sure that it doesn't flex when you put it on. The top surface needs to remain flat.
Once you get a good fit, mark an outline around the bracket on both the outside and inside. Then measure 1/8" from the INBOARD line and cut out a hole using that line.
Cut a piece of hinge material and tape it in place on the bracket. Make a paper cut-out for the flapper and tape to hinge. Make adustments necessary for flapper to fit nicely and so that it swings freely.
Obtain the E0995 K&N air filter ($45 from Advanced Auto). Place the filter in the housing and put the end cap on. Clamp in place. Mark 6 to 7 holes around the perimeter, drill to #12. Install nutplates.
Alternate air door
Bond the fiberglass door frame to the inlet cone. Fill all the gaps on the inside with epoxy/flox.
I'll let pictures tell the rest of the story:
I'll point out that I did the flapper door a little different than the instructions. Mostly because I couldn't find the drawings that came with the instructions and I did it on my own.
Will has you mounting the flapper on the other side of the hinge. You then have to make a 'spacer' the same shape as the door to take up the gap between the flapper and the deck so it sits flush. I put my flapper on the other side and then sanded down the area where the hinge mounts to the deck and put a spacer on top of the hinge to take up the space between it and the deck. I think I like this a litte better. The spacer is smaller/easier to make.
Connecting the FAB to the CIB:
The filtered airbox connects to the carb inlet box via a piece of 3" tubing. I used a 3" piece of silicone tube. It took me awhile to find this stuff but I finally figured out it is used on turbo-charger systems for cars, so a google search for 3" silicone turbo hose should net you something. Use 3" clamps to hold it in place.
The front inlet is also held in place but a piece of 3" tubing. I discovered that once the airbox is in place, the lower cowl is difficult to get on and off. Use a piece of 3" flexible scat tubing clamped to the aluminum inlet ring. Leave the aft clamp loose until you get the lower cowl in place and then you have just enough room to get it tight.
It is also advisable to support the filtered airbox from the top in some manner. Refer to the photo's section in the Yahoo group for an option.
Warm air inlet
Install Van's warm air inlet tube onto the exhaust and connect it to the inlet on the FAB. (NOTE: Make sure you have the 2" version of the inlet on the FAB. They were shipping a 2.25" version which made it difficult to connect to the tube on the exhaust.)
Install the cable to operate the door on the FAB using the B-nut. It takes a lot of stroke to take the door from open to closed, almost using the limits of the carb heat cable. Some design changes could be made to improve this, just not sure what.
First step is to attach the alternate air bracket to the box. This bracket holds the flapper that allows you to run warm air to the carb, closing off the fresh air. The bracket is positioned about 1" back from the front. (Do not position it too far aft. I have a report from a builder who had to trim a notch in his door to clear the air filter.) File and trim as necessary to get a decent fit. Make sure that it doesn't flex when you put it on. The top surface needs to remain flat.
Once you get a good fit, mark an outline around the bracket on both the outside and inside. Then measure 1/8" from the INBOARD line and cut out a hole using that line.
Cut a piece of hinge material and tape it in place on the bracket. Make a paper cut-out for the flapper and tape to hinge. Make adustments necessary for flapper to fit nicely and so that it swings freely.
Obtain the E0995 K&N air filter ($45 from Advanced Auto). Place the filter in the housing and put the end cap on. Clamp in place. Mark 6 to 7 holes around the perimeter, drill to #12. Install nutplates.
Alternate air door
Bond the fiberglass door frame to the inlet cone. Fill all the gaps on the inside with epoxy/flox.
I'll let pictures tell the rest of the story:
I'll point out that I did the flapper door a little different than the instructions. Mostly because I couldn't find the drawings that came with the instructions and I did it on my own.
Will has you mounting the flapper on the other side of the hinge. You then have to make a 'spacer' the same shape as the door to take up the gap between the flapper and the deck so it sits flush. I put my flapper on the other side and then sanded down the area where the hinge mounts to the deck and put a spacer on top of the hinge to take up the space between it and the deck. I think I like this a litte better. The spacer is smaller/easier to make.
Connecting the FAB to the CIB:
The filtered airbox connects to the carb inlet box via a piece of 3" tubing. I used a 3" piece of silicone tube. It took me awhile to find this stuff but I finally figured out it is used on turbo-charger systems for cars, so a google search for 3" silicone turbo hose should net you something. Use 3" clamps to hold it in place.
The front inlet is also held in place but a piece of 3" tubing. I discovered that once the airbox is in place, the lower cowl is difficult to get on and off. Use a piece of 3" flexible scat tubing clamped to the aluminum inlet ring. Leave the aft clamp loose until you get the lower cowl in place and then you have just enough room to get it tight.
It is also advisable to support the filtered airbox from the top in some manner. Refer to the photo's section in the Yahoo group for an option.
Warm air inlet
Install Van's warm air inlet tube onto the exhaust and connect it to the inlet on the FAB. (NOTE: Make sure you have the 2" version of the inlet on the FAB. They were shipping a 2.25" version which made it difficult to connect to the tube on the exhaust.)
Install the cable to operate the door on the FAB using the B-nut. It takes a lot of stroke to take the door from open to closed, almost using the limits of the carb heat cable. Some design changes could be made to improve this, just not sure what.
1 Comments:
Yes but...The idea behind this setup is that is gives you the ram effect...The Van's setup does not.
One issue however, with a forward facing sump, longer airflow performance fuel contoller, I am not totally confident I can get the whole system to fit in there anyway...its going to be tight..Oh well.
Frank
By Frank, at November 28, 2005 12:48 PM
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